Notes from the road

Layer up rather than relying on one heavy jacket — mornings and evenings swing from near-freezing to warm within hours. Carry lip balm and a moisturiser built for dry air, a reusable water bottle, and any prescription medication with a printed copy of the prescription. Cash matters more here than in most Indian cities, since ATMs thin out past Leh.

September through March brings clear skies and calm water, ideal for a relaxed houseboat cruise. Monsoon months (June–August) turn the backwaters lush and green with far fewer tourists, though some activities pause during heavy rain. April and May are hot and humid, better suited to early-morning excursions than full-day plans.

If you only have four days, spend one full day in Delhi's old and new city, a rushed but rewarding half-day at the Taj Mahal at sunrise, and the rest in Jaipur's forts and markets. Book Taj Mahal tickets a day ahead where possible, and start early to avoid both the crowds and the midday heat.

Venue booking should happen 8–10 months out for palace properties, since the popular ones fill up quickly in the winter wedding season. Guest travel and accommodation blocks come next, followed by décor and catering finalisation roughly three months before the date.

Sarnath, a short drive away, holds some of Buddhism's most important historical sites and is far quieter than the ghats. The narrow lanes of the old city hide centuries-old havelis and some of the best street food in North India, best explored on foot in the early morning.

North Goa's beaches get most of the attention, but a day trip to a spice plantation near Ponda or the Portuguese-era churches of Old Goa adds a different texture to the trip. South Goa's quieter beaches are worth the extra hour's drive if you're after fewer crowds.